A Handbook of Fish Cookery: How to buy, dress, cook, and eat fish

are less esteemed than they deserve to be. Salmon is sometimes called a river fish, though genuinely it is not so, as, although born in the river, the sea is its home and natural sphere. In Parisian restaurants many dainty dishes are prepared from fish caught in the Seine; and in country places where sea-water fish is often difficult to obtain, the ponds and rivers will often furnish excellent substitutes. All fresh-water fish--with the exception of trout--is at its best in winter-time. Shell-fish, perfectly harmless in themselves as they may be, exemplify the saying that "what is one man's meat is another man's poison;" accordingly, where they are found to disagree they should be strictly avoided. Oysters, the most highly esteemed of shell-fish, are frequently ordered by the physician when it is desirable to unite great nourishment with easy digestion, the amount of gluten they contain giving them this valuable quality. Lobsters are popularly considered to be the least harmful next to oysters, and the flesh of a fresh crab is both delicate and delicious. Shrimps, prawns, and crayfish, should properly rank as "relishes"; they are extremely useful in savoury dishes, either with or without other fish. Cockles are deservedly esteemed by the rich, and they have often staved off the pressure of starvation from the poor of our coasts. The limpet is a great favourite with the Irish, while the periwinkle is the poor man's luxury, and the clam enjoys high favour in the United States. PART I. _CHOOSING AND BUYING FISH._ Before coming to this important part of our subject, we would like to offer a suggestion (in all courtesy, be it understood) to our friends the fishmongers. Why do they, we would ask, invariably establish themselves on the sunny side of the road? Surely if any branch of trade requires coolness and shade it is the fish trade, yet how rare an exception to find one so situated. Then we would respectfully draw their attention to their way of handling the fish. Often it receives most unmerciful treatment, being knocked about on the marble slab with a