A Handbook of Fish Cookery: How to buy, dress, cook, and eat fish

in mind in this method of cookery is, to _keep in the flavour_. A slice of grilled salmon will taste far nicer if the slice has been wrapped in buttered paper; but cooking anything in paper requires the greatest care, as should there be the least flare the paper will catch fire,--what is required is a fierce heat. When baking fish _en papillot_, that is wrapped in buttered paper, the chief thing to bear in mind is not to spare the butter. This, one of the most delicate and delicious ways of cooking fish, is apt to be entirely spoilt, because only a little dab of butter is allowed. When fish has been cooked in paper it should be sent to table just as it is, paper and all. Always use plain white note paper, never printed. In boiling fish a very common fault is omitting to put sufficient salt into the water. In the case of large fish, salt should be added in the proportion of half a pound to a gallon of water; for smaller fish, a proportion of a quarter-pound to the gallon is sufficient. It is now generally thought best to place fish in nearly boiling water, then allow it to come gently to the boiling point again, this keeps in the flavour on the same principle as the boiling of meat. The time allowed depends entirely on the size of the fish, but when the flesh shows signs of being just able to be separated from the bone, it is amply done. Experience is the only safe guide. To preserve the _whiteness_ of white fish, it is wise to rub them over with lemon-juice before boiling. One method of boiling fish, when it is intended for eating cold, which is much approved of on the Continent, is to do it in "court-bouillon," and if fresh-water fish be cooked this way it is relieved of much of its insipidity. One part of vinegar, one part of red wine, to four parts of water, for the "bouillon." To two quarts of the liquor put an ounce of