The Gastronomic Regenerator: A Simplified and Entirely New System of Cookery: With Nearly Two Thousand Practical Receipts Suited to the Income of All Classes

be clear, light, and transparent, and of a beautiful straw colour; the body of a croustade the same. Large pies, timbales, and casseroles of rice must be of a yellowish brown colour. Jellies require to be rather white and transparent for fruits, and not too firm, but better so than too delicate. Orange jellies should be of a deep orange colour, and all fruit jellies as near as possible to the colour of the fruit. Creams should be very light and delicate, but fruit creams must be kept of the colour of the fruits they are made of. For all the demi-glacé removes the ice must be firm, but not the least hard. All kinds of soufflé or fondu must be well done through, or they would be very indigestible, clog the delicate palate, and prevent the degustation of the generous claret which flows so freely after dinner on the table of the real epicure. I recommend sugar in almost all savoury dishes, as it greatly facilitates digestion and invigorates the palate, but always increase or diminish the quantity according to the taste of your employer. I often introduce onions, eschalots, or even a little garlic in some of my most delicate dishes, but so well blended with other flavours that I never have a single objection even by those who have a great dislike to it. Horseradish and herbs of every description may always be used with discretion to great advantage. Contrary to the expressed opinion of every other previous publication, I say that too much seasoning is preferable to too little, as your employer can correct you by saying there is too much of this or that, and you can soon get it to his taste; but while you fear over-seasoning you produce no flavour at all; by allowing each guest to season for himself, your sauce attains a diversity of flavours. The cook must season for the guest, not the guest for the cook. I have always found great advantage in dressing the greatest part of my entrées on a thin roll of mashed potatoes;[2] this has