A guide to modern cookery

la Reine”; used for _sautés_ and chiefly for roasts. (3) _Spring chickens_; best suited to _en cocotte_ or grilled preparations. (4) _Chicks_; served only _en cocotte_ or grilled. _Suprêmes_ and _ailerons_ of fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens. Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series. 1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉS Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached or _poëled_; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised. The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon. The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No. 249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink. These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding. _Poëled fowls_ are trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter on _poëling_-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting