A guide to modern cookery

Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done, drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal smell. Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been _sautéd_, and finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden. 1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BERCY Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain them. For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the kidneys. 1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BORDELAISE Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above. Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce combined with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz. of sliced _cèpes_, tossed in butter and oil and well drained. Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in a timbale. 1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CARVALHO Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and dish them, each on a small _croûton_ of bread-crumb, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle. Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over the kidneys. 1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU CHAMPAGNE Remove the outer skin from the