A guide to modern cookery

their preparations, and in order to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb. 1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON 1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON 1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON 1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON 1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés) _Saddle of mutton_ is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs. _Baron of mutton_ comprises the saddle and the two legs, _i.e._, a pair of hind-quarters. _Double_ consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle. The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb. The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape. In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string. When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should