A guide to modern cookery

olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce. This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment. 1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley. Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley. Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper. 1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated _à l’anglaise_, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater. In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens. All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treated _à l’anglaise_,