A guide to modern cookery

cleared of all grease and reduced. Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, per lb. of macaroni. 1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c. Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared. All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer. 1193—LOIN OF VEAL 1194—NECK OF VEAL 1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL 1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI 1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés) I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes. The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case. _Loin of Veal_ is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the