A guide to modern cookery

out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift. When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise. The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248). The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening. 1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a _chartreuse_ of vegetables. Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat. _Chartreuses of Vegetables._—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours. When the moulds are