A guide to modern cookery

piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,” except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the upper fillet, in different places. A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole. When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry. All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the “Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected. The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes. 1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill) Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled. It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain. 1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé) The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be applied here. If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point where they