A guide to modern cookery

to have no warrant in fact. 1001—FRESH HADDOCK (Eglefin) This fish is chiefly eaten smoked, under the name of haddock. When it is fresh, it may be prepared after the recipes given for cod, to which it is quite equal in the matter of delicacy. 1002—SMELT (Éperlans) Owing to their small size, smelts only lend themselves to a very limited number of preparations. They are usually served either on little skewers or dished in a heap on a napkin, with fried parsley and grooved half-lemons; those on skewers are dished flat with the same garnish. Large smelts may be treated after the recipes immediately following. 1003—ÉPERLANS A L’ANGLAISE Open the smelts down the back and carefully bone, without disfiguring them. Treat them _à l’anglaise_ with fine bread-crumbs, and pat them lightly with the flat of a knife, that the bread-crumbs may adhere well. Cook them in clarified butter; set them on a long hot dish, and besprinkle them with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel (No. 150). 1004—ÉPERLANS AU GRATIN Proceed as for “Merlans au Gratin” (No. 1018), but allowing for the difference between the sizes of the two fish, put the smelts in a fiercer oven than the whiting, in order that they may be cooked simultaneously with the formation of the _gratin_. 1005—ÉPERLANS GRILLÉS Open them down the back, and remove the bulk of their spine, leaving a small piece only in the region of the tail, and another small piece at the head. Season, dredge, and sprinkle them with melted butter, and grill them quickly. Set them on a long, hot dish; surround them with slices of lemon and bunches of fried parsley, and serve separately either some half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel, or a sauce suited to grilled fish. 1006—MOUSSELINES D’ÉPERLANS Proceed exactly as for Mousselines de Saumon (No. 797). To prepare the forcemeat, follow the directions under No. 195; but note the following changes:—Of the whole quantity of the meat of fish, that of the smelt should only measure one-third; the other two-thirds should be supplied by the sole, dory, or whiting. The object of this