A guide to modern cookery

complete formulary, all those fish enumerated below, which are very rarely eaten in England, and the recipes for which could therefore serve no purpose:— 753—SHAD, chiefly served grilled. 754—FRESH ANCHOVIES, extremely rare, and may be grilled or fried. 755—EELS, considered as common, and principally used in the preparation of a pie held in high esteem by the frequenters of coffee-shops along the banks of the Thames. Small eels are also fried. But the many ways of dressing them which are common on the Continent are seldom practised in England. 756—PIKE, plentiful and of excellent quality; only used in the preparation of forcemeat and quenelles; the directions for the latter will be given later. Albeit they are sometimes served crimped, or cooked whole in a _court-bouillon au bleu_, accompanied by parsley or caper sauce, &c. Small pike are generally prepared “à la Meunière,” or fried. 757—CARP, in still less demand than the pike, and only prized for its milt. It must, however, be admitted that in England, more than anywhere else, I believe, this fish is too often spoilt by the taint of mud. 758—DORADO, served boiled with any of the English fish sauces; but, in my opinion, it is best grilled, after the manner generally adopted in the South of France. 759—STURGEON, very rare; it is braised, like veal. 760—FÉRA, very scarce on the market; comes from the Swiss or Savoy lakes, and is only served à la Meunière. 761—GUDGEON, very abundant in all rivers, but never eaten. 762—FROGS, the pet abomination of all classes of the population, with but few exceptions; nevertheless “Nymphes à l’Aurore,” the recipe of which I gave among the hors-d’œuvres, are generally appreciated. 763—FRESH HERRINGS, abundant and of excellent quality; seldom used in first-class cookery, except, perhaps, for their milt. Bloaters and kippered herrings are, with reason, preferred; of these I shall speak later. 764—LAMPREYS, chiefly used in preparing pies similar to those referred to in No. 755. 765—FRESH-WATER HERRINGS, like the Féra, come from Switzerland or Savoy, and are very scarce on the English market. Prepared especially à la Meunière. 766—LOTTE, very scarce on