A guide to modern cookery

of small onions and gherkins, prepared with vinegar, seasoned with sugar and cinnamon, and flavoured with cayenne. They resemble what the Italians call “Aceto-dolce.” This hors-d’œuvre is accompanied by special cinnamon biscuits, and remains on the table throughout the meal. 378—RILLETTES AND RILLONS Both these preparations, which belong to the province of the pork-butcher, may be found on the market. The rillettes are served in their pots, and are always sent to the table very cold. 379—RED MULLET A L’ORIENTALE Select small ones, as far as possible. Place them in an oiled pan, and add peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes, parsley-root, fennel, thyme, bay, a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander, and saffron, the latter being the dominating ingredient. Cover the whole with white wine; salt moderately, set to boil, and then leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve or eighteen minutes, in accordance with the size of the mullet. Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve them with a little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon. 380—SARDINES The various kinds of sardines for hors-d’œuvres may be found on the market. 381—SALADS Salads for hors-d’œuvres may consist of an endless diversity of products, and their preparation varies so that it would be impossible to prescribe fixed rules for the latter. I shall therefore restrict myself to saying merely that they should be made as light and as sightly as possible, in order that they may be in keeping with the general idea and purpose of hors-d’œuvre. 382—GOTHA AND MILAN SALAMI Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top of the other, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, in the form of a crown, with a sprig of curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may also be laid flat upon a litter of parsley. 383—ARLES, BOLOGNE OR LARGE LYONS SAUSAGES Cut these up and arrange them like the Salami. 384—FOIE-GRAS SAUSAGES Cut into thin roundels and dish up with chopped aspic jelly as a centre-garnish. 385—SMOKED SALMON Cut into triangular, thin slices; roll these into cones, and arrange in the form