The Boston cooking-school cook book

savored, it often disagrees with those of weak digestion. Geese are in market throughout the year; Massachusetts and Rhode Island furnishing specially good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is known as a _green goose_. They may be found in market from May to September. Young geese which appear in market September first and continue through December are called _goslings_. They have been hatched during May and June, and then fatted for market. Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called _ducklings_. Canvasback Ducks have gained a fine reputation throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks earlier, and are about as good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is due to the wild celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in market during the fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard, Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs. Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first, the law forbidding their being killed at any other time in the year. The same is true of partridge, but both are frozen and kept in cold storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large numbers to Eastern markets. Grouse (_prairie chicken_) are always obtainable,—fresh ones in the fall; later, those kept in cold storage. Plover may be bought from April until December. =To Select Poultry and Game.= A _chicken_ is known by soft feet, smooth skin, and soft cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird, while the presence of long hairs denotes age. In a _fowl_ the feet have become hard and dry with coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has ossified. _Cock turkeys_ are usually better eating than hen turkeys, unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey should be plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese abound in pinfeathers. Small birds should be plump, have soft feet