The Chemistry of Cookery

described. As ordinary thermometers register but little above 212°, and laboratory thermometers are too delicately constructed for kitchen use, I requested Messrs. Davis & Co. to construct a special thermometer for testing the temperature of heated fat. They have accordingly made an instrument that answers the purpose very well. It is like a laboratory thermometer, _i.e._ a glass tube with long bulb and the degrees engraved on the glass itself, but the bulb is turned at right angles to the tube, so that it is horizontal when the tube stands perpendicular, and lies under a stand just above the level of the bottom of the kettle. The instrument thus stands alone firmly, with its bulb fully immersed even in a very shallow bath of fat. Gouffé says: ‘Fat is the best for frying; the light-coloured dripping of roast meat, and the fat taken off broth are to be preferred. These failing, beef suet, chopped fine and melted down on a slow fire, without browning, will do very well; when the bottom of the stewpan can be seen through the suet, it is sufficiently melted.’ He is no advocate for lard, ‘as it always leaves an unpleasant coating of fat on whatever is fried in it.’ Olive oil of the best quality is almost absolutely tasteless, and having as high a boiling point as animal fats it is the best of all frying media. In this country there is a prejudice against the use of such oil. I have noticed at some of those humble but most useful establishments where poor people are supplied with penny or twopenny portions of well-cooked, good fish, that in the front is an inscription stating ‘only the best beef-dripping is used in this establishment.’ This means a repudiation of oil. On my first visit to Arctic Norway I arrived before the garnering and exportation of the spring cod harvest was completed. The packet stopped at a score or so of stations on the Lofodens and the mainland. Foggy weather was no impediment, as an experienced pilot free from catarrh could steer direct to the harbour