American Cookery: The Art of Dressing Viands, Fish, Poultry, and Vegetables

untasted, and even indelicious--while the _Pea Hen_ is exactly otherwise, and the queen of all birds. So also in a degree, _Turkey_. _Hen Turkey_, is higher and richer flavor'd, easier fattened and plumper--they are no odds in market. _Dunghill Fowls_, are from their frequent use, a tolerable proof of the former birds. _Chickens_, of either kind are good, and the yellow leg'd the best, and their taste the sweetest. _Capons_, if young are good, are known by short spurs and smooth legs. All birds are known, whether fresh killed or stale, by a tight vent in the former, and a loose open vent if old or stale; their smell denotes their goodness; speckled rough legs denote age, while smooth legs and combs prove them young. _A Goose_, if young, the bill will be yellow, and will have but few hairs, the bones will crack easily; but if old, the contrary, the bill will be red, and the pads still redder; the joints stiff and difficultly disjointed; if young, otherwise; choose one not very fleshy on the breast, but fat in the rump. _Ducks_, are similar to geese. _Wild Ducks_, have redder pads, and smaller than the tame ones, otherwise are like the goose or tame duck, or to be chosen by the same rules. _Wood Cocks_, ought to be thick, fat and flesh firm, the nose dry, and throat clear. _Snipes_, if young and fat, have full veins under the wing, and are small in the veins, otherwise like the Woodcock. _Partridges_, if young, will have black bills, yellowish legs; if old, the legs look bluish; if old or stale, it may be perceived by smelling at their mouths. _Pigeons_, young, have light red legs, and the flesh of a colour, and prick easily--old have red legs, blackish in parts, more hairs, plumper and loose vents--so also of grey or green Plover, Blade Birds, Thrash, Lark, and wild Fowl in general. _Hares_, are white flesh'd and flexible when new and fresh kill'd; if stale, their flesh will have a blackish hue, like old pigeons, if the cleft in her lip