Modern cookery for private families

be dressed in a variety of ways, and are extremely good: but they require from four to six hours’ stewing to render them perfectly tender, even when each tendon is divided into three or four slices. The upper flesh must be laid back from the tendons before they are taken from the breast, not left adhering to them. They are very good simply stewed in white gravy, and served with green peas, _à la Française_, in the centre. The breast entirely boned, forced, and rolled, makes a handsome dish, either roasted or stewed. No. 12. A TONGUE. This is sliced, not very thin, through the thickest and best part, shown by the letters _a b_. The fat of the root, when it is liked, must be carved by turning the tongue, and cutting in the direction _c d_. No. 13. A CALF’S HEAD. [Illustration] An entire calf’s head, served in its natural form, recalls too forcibly the appearance of the living animal to which it has belonged not to be very uninviting. Even when the half of one only is sent to table, something of the same aspect remains, and as it is in every way improved, and rendered most easy to carve when boned[7] and rolled, we would recommend its being so prepared whenever it can be done without difficulty. Our engraving does not give a very flattering representation of it in that form, but having been dressed with the skin on, it was not quite so easily brought into handsome shape as if it had been freed from it; yet we would nevertheless advise its being generally retained. When the head is served without being boned, it is carved across the cheek, in the line from _a_ to _b_; the part which in flavour and appearance resembles a sweetbread, and which is regarded as a delicacy, lies in the direction indicated by the letters _c d_. The flesh of the eye is another favourite morsel, which must be detached from the head by passing the point of the carving knife deeply round the eye-hole, in the circle marked