Modern cookery for private families

of cucumbers. Brown cucumber sauce or a rich gravy, may be substituted for either of these in serving a quite simple dinner. Cutlets of the loin may be dressed in the same way after being dipped into crumbs of bread mixed with a full seasoning of minced herbs, and with a small quantity of eschalot when its flavour is liked. The small flat bone at the end of the cutlets should be taken off, to give them a good appearance. LAMB CUTLETS IN THEIR OWN GRAVY. Follow exactly the receipt for mutton cutlets dressed in the same way, but allow for those of lamb fifteen or twenty minutes less of time, and an additional spoonful of liquid. CUTLETS OF COLD LAMB. See the receipt for Cutlets of Cold Mutton, page 243. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CHAPTER XIII. =Pork.= [Illustration] No. 1. The Spare Rib. 2. Hand. 3. Belly, or Spring. 4. Fore Loin. 5. Hind Loin. 6. Leg. In season from Michaelmas to March: should be avoided in very warm weather. TO CHOOSE PORK. THIS meat is so proverbially, and we believe even _dangerously_ unwholesome when ill fed, or in any degree diseased, that its quality should be closely examined before it is purchased. When not home-reared, it should be bought if possible of some respectable farmer or miller, unless the butcher who supplies it can be perfectly relied on. Both the fat and lean should be very white, and the latter finely grained; the rind should be thin, smooth, and cool to the touch; if it be clammy, the pork is stale, and should be at once rejected; it ought also to be scrupulously avoided when the fat, instead of being quite clear of all blemish, is full of small kernels which are indicative of disease. The manner of cutting up the pork varies in different counties, and also according to the purposes for which it is intended. The legs are either made into hams, or slightly salted for a few days and boiled; they are also sometimes roasted when the pork is not large nor coarse, with a savoury forcemeat inserted