Modern cookery for private families

of a great variety of light dishes (_entrées_) than of substantial English fare, the ears, brains, sweetbreads, gristles or _tendrons_, and the tail of a calf, may be dressed in many different ways to supply them; but they require a really good style of cookery, and many adjuncts to render them available for the purpose, as they do not possess much decided natural flavour, and their insipidity would be apt to tire if it were not relieved by the mode of preparing them. We shall give some few especial receipts for them in the chapter on Foreign Cookery, should sufficient space remain open for us to admit them; and insert here only such slight general directions as may suffice for preparing some of them in a simple form; as they are not in reality of first-rate importance. All of them may be served with good curried, or highly-flavoured tomato-sauce, after having been stewed in strong broth or gravy. The brains and sweetbreads cut into small dice or scallops, and mixed with _béchamel_, or with common white sauce, may be used to fill small _vol-au-vents_, or patty cases. The ears are usually filled in part with forcemeat, or a preparation of the brains, and placed upright when dished; and the upper part is cut into narrow fringe-like strips. For “_Tendrons de Veau_,” and “Breast of veal rolled and stewed,” the reader is referred to Chapter XXXIV. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CHAPTER XII. =Mutton.= [Illustration] No. 1. Leg. 2. Best End of Loin. 3. Chump End of Loin. 4. Neck, Best End. 5. Neck, Scrag End. 6. Shoulder. 7. Breast. A Saddle is the Two Loins. A Chine, the Two Necks. Mutton is best suited for table in autumn, winter, and early spring. It is not considered quite so good when grass-lamb is in full season, nor during the sultry months of summer. TO CHOOSE MUTTON. THE best mutton is small-boned, plump, finely-grained, and short-legged; the lean of a dark, rather than of a bright hue, and the fat white and clear: when this is yellow, the meat is rank, and of bad quality. Mutton