Modern cookery for private families

small dessertspoonful; gravy, or strong broth, 1/2 pint; vinegar, and mushroom catsup, of each 1 tablespoonful; chili vinegar, 1 dessertspoonful; _small_ bit of sugar; little cayenne, and salt if needed; parsley, 1 tablespoonful (pickled mushrooms or not at pleasure). _Obs._—Soles or cod-fish are very good, if raised neatly from the bones, or _flaked_, and heated in this _Mâitre d’Hôtel_ sauce. CALF’S HEAD BRAWN. (_Author’s Receipt._) The half of a fine large calf’s head with the skin on, will best answer for this brawn. Take out the brains, and bone it entirely, or get the butcher do this; rub a little fine salt over, and leave it to drain for ten or twelve hours; next wipe it dry, and rub it well in every part with three quarters of an ounce of saltpetre finely powdered (or with an ounce should the head be _very_ large) and mixed with four ounces of common salt, and three of bay-salt, also beaten fine; turn the head daily in this pickle for four or five days, rubbing it a little each time; and then pour over it four ounces of treacle, and continue to turn it every day, and baste it with the brine very frequently for a month. Hang it up for a night to drain, fold it in brown paper, and send it to be smoked where wood only is burned, from three to four weeks. When wanted for table, wash and scrape it very clean, but do not soak it; lay it, with the rind downwards, into a saucepan or stewpan, which will hold it easily; cover it _well_ with cold water, as it will swell considerably in the cooking; let it heat rather slowly, skim it thoroughly when it first begins to simmer, and boil it as gently as possible from an hour and three quarters to a couple of hours or more, should it not then be _perfectly_ tender quite through; for unless sufficiently boiled, the skin, which greatly resembles brawn, will be unpleasantly tough when cold. When the fleshy side of the head is done, which will be twenty