Modern cookery for private families

a clear fire, is shown by the first of these figures; and the second is peculiarly convenient when bread or muffins are required to be toasted expeditiously and in large quantities, without much time and attention being bestowed upon them. TO BROWN THE SURFACE OF A DISH WITHOUT BAKING OR PLACING IT AT THE FIRE. This is done with a salamander, as it is called, formed like the engraving below; it is heated in the fire, and held over the dish sufficiently near to give it colour. It is very much used in a superior order of cookery. A kitchen shovel is sometimes substituted for it on an emergency. [Illustration] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CHAPTER X. =Beef.= [Illustration] No. 1. Sirloin. 2. Rump. 3. Edge-bone. 4. Buttock, or Round. 5. Mouse Buttock. 6. Veiny Piece. 7. Thick Flank. 8. Thin Flank. 9. Leg. 10. Fore Rib. (Five Ribs.) 11. Middle Rib. (Four Ribs.) 12. Chuck Rib. (Three Ribs.) 13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece. 14. Brisket. 15. Clod. 16. Neck. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek. TO CHOOSE BEEF. Beef is in reality in season through the entire year, but it is best during the winter months, when it will hang a sufficient time to become tender before it is dressed. Meat of a more delicate nature is better adapted for the table in summer. The _Christmas beef_ of England is too much celebrated to require any mention here. If young and freshly killed, the lean of ox-beef will be smoothly grained, and of a fine, healthy, carnation-red, the fat rather white than yellow, and the suet white and firm. Heifer-beef is more closely grained, and rather less bright of colour, the bones are considerably smaller, and the fat of a purer white. Of bull-beef we only speak to warn our readers that it is of all meat the coarsest and the most rank in flavour. It may be known by its dark hue, its close tough fibre, and the scanty proportion, bad appearance, and strong odour of its fat. In choice and well-fed beef, the lean will be found intergrained with fat: very