Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine

attention from such as desire to render a humble home comfortable and happy. The leaves have never been opened. I will not say, _ex hoc disce omnes_; but it really appears to be the case, that these works are not studied by those for whom they are written--not studied, at all events, to advantage. Dr. Kitchener augmented this department of our literary stores in 1821 with his "Cook's Oracle," which was very successful, and passed through a series of editions. In the preface to that of 1831, the editor describes the book as greatly enlarged and improved, and claims the "rapid and steady sale which has invariably attended each following edition" as a proof of the excellence of the work. I merely mention this, because in Kitchener's own preface to the seventh issue, l2mo, 1823, he says: "This last time I have found little to add, and little to alter." Such is human fallibility! The "Cook's Oracle" was heralded by an introduction which very few men could have written, and which represents the Doctor's method of letting us know that, if we fancy him an impostor, we are much mistaken. "The following Recipes," says he, "are not a mere marrowless collection of shreds and patches, of cuttings and pastings--but a bonâ-fide register of practical facts--accumulated by a perseverance, not to be subdued or evaporated by the igniferous Terrors of a Roasting Fire in the Dog-days:--in defiance of the odoriferous and calefaceous repellents of Roasting, Boiling,--Frying, and Broiling;--moreover, the author has submitted to a labour no preceding Cookery-Book-maker, perhaps, ever attempted to encounter,--having eaten each Receipt before he set it down in his Book." What could critics say, after this? One or two large editions must have been exhausted before they recovered their breath, and could discover how the learned Kitchener set down the receipts which he had previously devoured. But the language of the Preface helps to console us for the loss of Johnson's threatened undertaking in this direction. Dr. Kitchener proceeded on different lines from an artist who closely followed him in the order of publication; and the two