A guide to modern cookery

these theories may be applied, and, indeed, if one does not make an abuse of glazes, and if they be prepared with care, their use gives excellent results, while they lend themselves admirably to the very complex demands of modern customs. 15—MEAT GLAZE Meat glaze is made by reducing brown stock (Formula 7) in a large stewpan upon an open fire. As often as the stock is appreciably reduced, during ebullition, it may be transferred to smaller stewpans, taking care to strain it through muslin at each change of stewpan. The glaze may be considered sufficiently reduced when it evenly veneers a withdrawn spoon. The fire used for reducing should gradually wane as the concentration progresses, and the last phase must be effected slowly and on a moderate fire. When it is necessary to obtain a lighter and clearer glaze, the brown veal stock (Formula No. 9) should be reduced instead of the “_Estouffade_.” 16—POULTRY GLAZE Reduce the poultry base indicated in Formula 10, and proceed in exactly the same way as for meat glaze (Formula 15). 17—GAME GLAZE Use the game base (Formula 8), and proceed as for meat glaze (Formula 15). 18—FISH GLAZE This glaze is used less often than the preceding ones. As it is only used to intensify the savour of sauces, it is sufficient for this purpose to prepare a white fish stock (Formula 11), which may be diluted with the stock already prepared, and which may be reduced according to the requirements. The name of fish _fumet_ or fish essence is given to this preparation; its flavour is more delicate than that of fish glaze, which it replaces with advantage. CHAPTER II THE LEADING WARM SAUCES Warm sauces are of two kinds: the leading sauces, also called “mother sauces,” and the small sauces, which are usually derived from the first-named, and are generally only modified forms thereof. Cooking stock only includes the leading sauces, but I shall refer to the small hot sauces and the cold sauces at the end of the auxiliary stock. Experience, which plays such an important part in culinary work,