A guide to modern cookery

time, subtle finish to the consommé, which, besides sharpening the latter, should increase its succulence. When the consommé is served cold it ought to have the qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it should be just right in respect of consistency. 7—BROWN STOCK OR “ESTOUFFADE” _Quantities for making Four Quarts._ 4 lbs. of shin of beef (flesh and bone). 4 lbs. of shin of veal (flesh and bone). ½ lb. of lean, raw ham. ½ lb. of fresh pork rind, rinsed in tepid water. ¾ lb. of minced carrots, browned in butter. ¾ lb. of minced onions, browned in butter. 1 faggot, containing a little parsley, a stick of celery, a small sprig of thyme, and a bay leaf. _Preparation._—Bone and string the meat, and keep it in readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as possible, and, after having besprinkled them with a little stock-fat, brown them in an oven; also stir them repeatedly. When they are slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large saucepan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe the edge of the saucepan; put the lid half on, and allow the stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool. This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Meanwhile the meat should have been repeatedly turned,