Choice Cookery

or stock should be allowed for the wasting. In the next chapter we will make acquaintance with the miscellaneous sauces which are not built on the foundation of either white or brown sauce. These are chiefly cold sauces, although served with hot dishes at times, as Tartare, Remoulade, etc. V. COLD SAUCES. Cold dishes, which are such a pleasing feature of foreign cookery, are much neglected with us, at least in private kitchens, or they are limited to two or three articles served in mayonnaise, or a galantine, yet the dishes which the French call _chaudfroids_ are both delicious and ornamental, and it only requires a little taste, care, and _perfect sauce_ to convert the ordinary cold chicken, turkey, or game into an elaborate and choice dish. Among cold sauces, of course mayonnaise, both green, red, and yellow, reigns supreme; indeed, of late years it has become almost hackneyed. Yet no work on choice eating would be complete without the different forms of mayonnaise. Mayonnaise is one of those sauces in which everything depends on care, and very little on skill, and yet some women have quite a reputation for making it among their friends who often declare how unsuccessful their own efforts have been, and that to succeed is a gift. It is not as a novelty, therefore, that the manner of making it is given here, but that those who believe they have not the "magic fingers" may take courage and try again. First of all let me explain what seems to puzzle many. I have been frequently asked, "How much oil can I use to two eggs?" the answer is, "As much as you choose;" or, again, "How many eggs ought I to take to a quart of oil?" again the answer is, "One, two, three, or four." The egg is only a foundation, and mayonnaise will "come" no better with two yolks than one, although some _chefs_ consider it keeps better when two eggs are used to a pint of oil. A cool room is always insisted on for making the sauce, but to the amateur