Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome

a mixture of wheat or rice flour with fats or liquids to thicken fluids. _Amylum_, or _amulum_ which hereafter will occur frequently in the original does not cover the ground as well as the French term _roux_. The quality of the "binder" depends upon the material in hand. Sometimes the fat and flour are parched, sometimes they are used raw. Sometimes the flour is diluted with water and used in that form. [3] List. and G.-V. _sorbendum_; Tor. _subruendum_. [55] ANOTHER [THICK ENTRÉE GRAVY] _ALITER_ GRIND PEPPER WHICH HAS BEEN SOAKED OVERNIGHT, ADD SOME MORE STOCK AND WORK IT INTO A SMOOTH PASTE; THEREUPON ADD QUINCE-APPLE CIDER, BOILED DOWN ONE HALF, THAT IS WHICH HAS EVAPORATED IN THE HEAT OF THE SUN TO THE CONSISTENCY OF HONEY. IF THIS IS NOT AT HAND, ADD FIG WINE [1] CONCENTRATE WHICH THE ROMANS CALL "COLOR" [2]. NOW THICKEN THE GRAVY WITH ROUX OR WITH SOAKED RICE FLOUR AND FINISH IT ON A GENTLE FIRE. [1] Tor. _cammarum_, which should read _caricarum_--wine of Carica figs. [2] V. the Roman equivalent for "_singe_," "monkey," "_Affe_,"--(the _vulgo_ French is literally translated into and in actual use in other languages) caramel color made of burnt sugar to give gravies a palatable appearance. Cf. No. 73. The reference by the original to "which the Romans call 'color'" indicates, according to Brandt, that this formula is NOT of ROMAN origin but probably a translation into Latin from a Greek cookery book. This is an interesting suggestion, and it could be elaborated on to say that the entire Apicius is NOT of Roman origin. But why should the Greeks who in their balmy days were so far in advance of Rome in culinary matters go there for such information? It is more likely that this reference to Rome comes from the Italian provinces or the colonies, regions which naturally would look to Rome for guidance in such matters. [56] ANOTHER AMULATUM _AMULATUM ALITER_ DISJOINT A CHICKEN AND BONE IT. PLACE THE PIECES IN A STEW PAN WITH LEEKS, DILL AND SALT [water or stock] WHEN WELL DONE ADD PEPPER