Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome

C{oe}lius. We may safely join Vollmer in his belief that M. Gabius Apicius, celebrated gourmet living during the reign of Tiberius was the real author, or collector, or sponsor of this collection of recipes, or at least of the major part thereof--the formulæ bearing the names of posterior gourmets having been added from time to time. This theory also applies to the two instances where the name of Varro is mentioned in connection with the preparation of beets and onions (bulbs). It is hardly possible that the author of the book made these references to Varro. It is more probable that some well-versed posterior reader, perusing the said articles, added to his copy: "And Varro prepared beets this way, and onions that way...." (cf. Book III, [70]) Still, there is no certainty in this theory either. There were many persons by the names of Commodus, Trajanus, Frontinianus, such as are appearing in our text, who were contemporaries of Apicius. With our mind at ease as regards the genuineness of our book we now may view it at a closer range. OBSCURE TERMINOLOGY Apicius contains technical terms that have been the subject of much speculation and discussion. _Liquamen_, _laser_, _muria_, _garum_, etc., belong to these. They will be found in our little dictionary. But we cannot refrain from discussing some at present to make intelligible the most essential part of the ancient text. Take _liquamen_ for instance. It may stand for broth, sauce, stock, gravy, drippings, even for _court bouillon_--in fact for any liquid appertaining to or derived from a certain dish or food material. Now, if Apicius prescribes _liquamen_ for the preparation of a meat or a vegetable, it is by no means clear to the uninitiated what he has in mind. In fact, in each case the term _liquamen_ is subject to the interpretation of the experienced practitioner. Others than he would at once be confronted with an unsurmountable difficulty. Scientists may not agree with us, but such is kitchen practice. Hence the many fruitless controversies at the expense of the original, at the disappointment of science. _Garum_ is