Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome

A WARM [4] WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _Patina de apua fricta_--same as _aphya_, fried fresh small fish of the kind of anchovies, sardines, sprats. In experimenting with this formula we would advise to use salt and oil judiciously if any at all. We have no knowledge of the ancient _apua fricta_ other than our making of modern sardines which is to fry them in oil as quickly as possible after the fish has left the water, for its meat is very delicate. For an omelette, our modern sardines, including kippered smelts, sprotten, and similar smoked and processed fish, contain sufficient salt and fat to season the eggs of an omelette. [2] Tor. Sentence wanting in other texts. [3] Tor. _cum aqua_; List., G.-V. _cum apua_. Perhaps a typographical error in Tor. A little water is used to dilute the eggs of an omelette, but Apicius already prescribes sufficient liquids (stock or brine, wine) for that purpose. [4] Tor. _et in calore {oe}nogarum perfundes_; List., G.-V. _ut coloret_--to keep the omelette in the pan long enough to give it "color." We prefer the Torinus version because an omelette should have no or very little color from the fire (the eggs thus browned are indigestible) and because hot _{oe}nogarum_ (wine-fish sauce, not in List.) is accompanying this dish, to give additional savour and a finishing touch. [148] FINE RAGOUT OF BRAINS AND BACON _PATINA EX LARIDIS _[1]_ ET CEREBELLIS_ THE DISH OF BACON AND BRAINS IS MADE IN THIS MANNER [2] STRAIN [or chop fine] HARD BOILED EGGS [3] WITH PARBOILED BRAINS [calf's or pig's] THE SKIN AND NERVES OF WHICH HAVE BEEN REMOVED; ALSO COOK CHICKEN GIBLETS, ALL IN PROPORTION TO THE FISH [4] PUT THIS AFORESAID MIXTURE IN A SAUCEPAN, PLACE THE COOKED BACON IN THE CENTER, GRIND PEPPER AND LOVAGE AND TO SWEETEN ADD A DASH OF MEAD, HEAT, WHEN HOT STIR BRISKLY WITH A RUE WHIP AND BIND WITH ROUX. [1] G.-V. _lagitis_; Tor. _laridis_ and _largitis_; Vat. Ms. _lagatis_; List. _pro lagitis ... legendum Lacertis_. The _lacertus_, according to List., is a